Wednesday, February 25, 2009

The post where I walk in the Andes mountains for over 25 miles. In the dark.

This post is going way back to the beginning of all the stuff I said I was going to write about.

First, the Caminata from Mira to Ibarra.

Grace and I all fresh at the beginning of the walk.

This is the beginning of the fiestas of Mira, the small town where my host family is from. They do a walk from Ibarra to Mira as part of a penance to the Virgen de la Caridad. It's an over 25 mile walk in the mountains on the Panamericana at night. So, of course I decided I wanted to do it with my host family. On the night of January 30th, at 10 pm, we met up with all the other walkers at a location at the edge of Ibarra. We set out behind a big float with a papermache bull with his horns on pretend fire, and a small version of the Virgen de la Caridad. We cordoned off with ropes behind the float initially so that it was a big mass of about 200 walkers, packed together, walking behind the float and kept to one side of the road. That was ok, but with my gargantuan legs, I kept stepping on the backs of people's feet and I think they were getting angry. This part was nice and leisurely. My host sis, Grace, and I kept singing "I'm Yours" by Jason Mraz and I taught her the words and the meaning.

After a couple of hours, the crowd started to spread out a lot and a bunch of them went ahead of the float. We were some of the last walkers to pass the float and that put us behind schedule. So by the time we got to the next water stop, we had to SPEED WALK for about one hour. Like serious serious, Jefferson Perez style speed walking (He's Ecuador's only olympic medal winner - for speed walking - and he endorses EVERYTHING). I was stretching those long legs and trying to keep up. This is where it became real work. I didn't realize it before either, but I'm sure speed walking tones your legs so much better than running. My butt! Talk about a pain in the ass! We finally got to the next food and water stop in Mascarilla, which is half way there and in the Valle Chota, (and where most people gave up and took buses). From there, most people were spread out or had left, and the float was no where to be seen. So it was just my host sister, my host brother, Erik, and I walking on the Panamericana. The mountains were there, we were there, tired as hell, and once in a while, so was one of the lights from one of our cell phones. But essentially, we were walking in total darkness on the highway, high in the mountains. There were no guardrails, but you could see the faint outlines of the mountains, so I had no fear of falling off. And we could always see or hear a car before it came. This is the part, where we sang songs, walked silently, and played games. The darkest part of the night. 2 AM - 5 AM. At this point, my feet hurt so bad from all the pressure. And my butt hurt from the speed walking. And I couldn't see where I was walking. But it was nice, to just keep walking. To just keep going.

Exhausted after speed walking. Laying down in Mascarilla.

All alone on the Panamericana. Host sis and bro.

It felt like a long time, but eventually, the sky began to lighten. And we began to hear the sounds of birds and animals. But we still had to keep going. UP the mountain. That's right. Since 2 AM it was all UP the mountain. It was definitely beautiful. The sunrise was gorgeous as well as the view. Finally at 6 AM, we hit La Portada (small small town right outside of Mira) where we were supposed to meet with the other walkers and where La Virgen was supposed to receive us to take us back to Mira. We got there, and a small band was playing and there was warm coffee! Ahhhhhhhh.... we sat down for a bit. Stretched and massaged those sore muscles.

The very beginning of sunrise.

After 30 minutes, we were up again. (OH NO!) This time to walk with the large crowd and to carry la Virgen to Mira. This was a nice walk, uphill again. But very pretty. There were priests, and all sorts of people coming up to help carry la Virgen, which was very heavy. Grace was able to help carry her. When we finally got to Mira, we jumped out of the walk to the Abuelito's house. We showered quickly, ate a quick breakfast, took a much needed dose of Advil, and then passed out till 3 PM. I was definitely the last one to wake up, but my body was so sore, I remember thinking, "why would I want to get out of bed?" Well, the answer to that, is the Novillo.

The last leg of the Caminata. The crowd with la Virgen de la Caridad.

Carnaval time has come and gone.

A picture's worth a thousand words? Then this is Carnaval.

I feel this a pretty representative picture of the craziness that is Carnaval. Even the dancers in the parade were not spared.


Ok. So this is a waaaaay overdue post. I've been meaning to write about many things, but well, let's be honest - I'm lazy. And busy living life. I figure I'll just first write about what has happened most recently and then get to that other stuff.

So. Carnaval. Kind of awesome.

In Ecuador, Carnaval is celebrated a little differently. It's not the samba dancers and scantily clad women that you think of when you think of the Carnaval in Brazil. Think water. Eggs. Flour. And Carnaval foam (in an aereosol can to spray at people). In Ecuador, they throw all of that stuff at you. Yeah, there is dancing, drinking, cultural events, and parades. But I would say the most distinctive characteristic of an Ecua-Carnaval is throwing water and spraying Carnaval foam (flour, eggs, and other nasty stuff in other places). And Carnaval starts early. The actual official days are Monday and Tuesday (Feb 23 and 24), but I would say I started to see little boys throw water balloons at people, buses, bikes, anything as early as Feb 5th. At that time, it was few and far between. It crescendoed closer to Carnaval and during my walks to class there were a few times when I got hit in a drive by water ballooning or hit from a roof of a house. Before Carnaval frenzy came, I remember thinking I was going to love Carnaval with a big water fight. But then when I got hit walking to class, I realized that I didn't like the sneak attack wetting.

For Carnaval, Debby and I had planned with some other vols to go to Guaranda and Ambato as those are where the biggest Carnaval celebrations are. All I had heard about Guaranda from my host fam was that it was crazy, cold, and that it was a free for all of flour, water, and eggs. Ambato is one of the few places where water is not allowed and it is known for it's parade of fruits and flowers.

Guaranda:

We got there in the afternoon and went to our hostal (which was a total sketchballish type place despite the fact that it was set up through the host fam of one of our friends) and then went out to one of the small parades (as our friends we were meeting were in another town next door for the bigger parade). We ended up in the parade for that barrio with the cross dressing group and danced around in the rain. That night, there were concerts in the parks and dancing all around. We avoided water balloons and flour that night and thought we were good.

But then there was the next day. Which I was looking forward to. That's when the craziness started for us. We got to the town center at about 10 am, which was absolutely packed. We bought our Carnaval foam and took up our spots to watch the parade. While there, we essentially entered the war zone. In seconds, we were covered in foam so that you couldn't see, breathe, or hear anything but the crackle and pop of the foam. Then the water balloons came. And then the flour in the hair and face. And the poor people in the parade were no exception to this craziness. The folk dancers and the reinas had to just take it and continue on their way. People were even shooting the foam into the band's tuba. And instead of giving out candy or flowers from the floats, they gave out small bottles of parajo azul which is essentially pure cane alcohol and some sugar. That's how Ecuador does! We fought with the rest of Guaranda and watched the parade in the rain for pretty much the whole afternoon. It was just as we expected. Crazy, cold, and a free for all. That night, we went out dancing in the cold Andean rain in the main plaza for probably hours. I'm probably paying for it now with a cold, but it was worth to have my first crazy Carnaval experience and to see a lot of the other vols.

Ambato:

The next day we made our way over to Ambato, which has a larger Carnaval celebration, but a little more cultural and sophisticated. The big parade was at night. These were some fancy floats made entirely of fruits and flowers. And I've never seen so many reinas with crazy elaborate costumes (some of them had the samba thing going on) as well as great dancers from all over. A great parade and a very different vibe than Guaranda. More put together and cultural, but more subdued too. Until after the parade, when the giant crowd went crazy with the Carnaval foam (the only thing they do in Ambato). They were not taking prisoners either. They went straight for the face and eyes. In some ways, more malicious than Guaranda. But overall, really fun too.

When we got back into Ibarra, I saw people everywhere with GIANT buckets of water just throwing it at people passing by. It was a free for all of water in Ibarra. No one was spared. Being tired of being abused by water and foam, I quickly took a cab and made it back to my house. It looks like Carnaval in Ibarra was pretty fun too.

In summary, it was a great Carnaval for me. My very first experience which was pretty awesome.

Why don't we have Carnaval in the U.S. I mean we have Mardi Gras, but that's only in New Orleans and it's different. I want to just sneak up on any one on the street in DC and throw a bucket of water on them and foam them in the face. But I have a feeling I'd get arrested for that. Oh well.

Sunday, February 15, 2009

My Hero! .... And Coming Soon.

My Hero: Dr. Paul Farmer

This was an NPR article he wrote on the theme " This I believe..." He's an amazing man with great ideology he actually puts into practice. He's definitely a role model. Read it. We need health care change.

And... COMING SOON:

I just got back from my whirlwind trip and I have so much to write about. Not just from my trip, but from before. As I don't have time to write about it now (as I start a new module tomorrow), here is a little teaser.
  • La Caminata de la Virgen de la Caridad - where I walked from Ibarra to Mira at night, without light, in the mountains for over 25 miles and 10 hours to "carry" the virgin to Mira.
  • El Novillo - where I ran away from a bull with his horns on fire.
  • Galapagos Islands - where a good friend came to visit and we swam with sea lions and sharks.
  • Chugchilan - a small town high in the Andes where I went horseback riding and then hiking a crater lake.
I'll write about all these soooooooon! It was pretty amazing. =)